What to put in your portfolio
Most of the people you will show your book to are probably photographers
so it is extremely important that the quality of the pictures is very high.
Photographers tend to first look at the picture (and try to analyze
how it's shot) and then at the make-up and styling.
Photographers are generally looking for a book of photos where
the subjects look like they've got great skin and where attention
is not drawn to the makeup. Have a couple beauty shots (unless you are
already exclusively shooting beauty), but only have one shot in the
book where you've taken a chance or gone out on a limb.
When you're choosing pictures, after a test for example, try to
go with the photographers choice. Don't always go for the close-up
picture because it shows off your make-up or you'll end up with a
portfolio full of skin-care-ad-looking images.
On the shoot
Talk to the photographer. Find out what the brief is.
Do not think of every shoot as an opportunity to show off.
Be adaptable and try to find what works for the model, not
just what you were planning to try out.
During make up do try to talk to the model and build a
rapport with her so that when she goes on set she
starts with her confidence already high. It should also
mean she wont mind with the odd tweaking that she may need,
which on the whole will provide a nice relaxed shoot.
Go easy with the colour
One of the most common complaints from photographers and stylists
when working with new make up artists is too much makeup and use
of colours that are too strong.
Most makeup jobs are not about the makeup, they're about the image
as a whole or simply about the clothes.
If you are given a free reign or asked to be more creative let
the photographer/stylist know what you are planning before you go ahead.
Perfection is attainable
Most importantly, a makeup artist should be able to smooth any color
blotchiness and flatter/enhance facial features. But don't stop at the
face. If any skin is on show it is YOUR responsibility to make sure it
looks right, although that doesn't mean going mad with the foundation.
That even extends to making sure that models have removed any items
of clothing that MIGHT leave a mark. Given that it takes about an hour
for elastic marks to fade do this before everything else. For example
get the girls to remove their bra and socks and undo the waistband
of their jeans.
Yes these marks can be retouched later but it is easier, quicker and
cheaper to get the shot right first time. Also the photographer may
not be the one doing the retouching so will not want to hand over
images to the client that already have a list of avoidable blemishes.
It's also useful if the make-up artist knows a bit about photography.
A natural look can sometimes look washed out and pale in strong
lighting yet stronger looks can become overpowering. Most
set ups will show each and every brush stroke and the tinyist
imperfection (of either the model or the make up) will be glaringly
obvious so always check the polaroids!
Hygiene
Not just restricted to cleaning brushes. Popping out every now and then for a cigarette during the shoot is never popular. Especially if you're working with a non-smoking team. Try to wait until the model is getting changed or the hair-stylist is changeing the hair. Then use babywipes with perfume in to get some of that smell of your fingers.
During shooting
Make sure the model looks good actually on the set, under the
shoot lighting conditions. Keep an eye on stray hair etc while
the photographer is shooting. However ASK before jumping in to
correct something. If you watch the photographer you should be
able to spot when a 'good time' is.
Don't leave early - stay until the end of the shoot , don't make
appointments that start when you know the shoot will still be going
on and do bear in mind that shoot can often overrun.